A long-overdue travel tale. I made this trip back in 2018 and always wanted to write down the experience. However, partly due to work commitments and partly due to my procrastination it never happened until now.
2018 was the year of road trips. After two back-to-back vacations to the pristine beach of Mandarmani, this time we decided to visit the other unexplored paths of Bengal. I was also desperate for a break from work and a road trip was all my heart and mind needed to refresh and rejuvenate. After some quick planning, we decided to visit Garpanchkot, located at the foothills of the Panchet Hill in the Purulia district in West Bengal.
Garpanchkot holds tremendous historical significance in the history of Bengal. Unfortunately, not much is documented about the royal family of that region and their reign of 1900 years in our history books.
Day 1: Kolkata - Garpanchkot Tourist Lodge, Gobag
On a cool Saturday morning, we left behind Kolkata and started for our destination - the Charulata Resort in Garhpanchkot. The resort is a three-year-old public-private holding located just at the base of the beautiful Panchet Hills.
We started driving on NH2 via Dunlop exit/entry and after paying the first toll at the Nivedita Setu, we headed straight towards SH2. This road is the Kolkata exit of the Golden Quadrilateral and one needs to exercise a bit of caution as there are two forks on this road. One heading towards Delhi and the other towards Mumbai and Chennai via Kharagpur
Most of the route is fairly simple and you would pass through Dankuni, Saktigarh, Burdwan, Panagarh, Durgapur, Raniganj, and Asansol before reaching the turn that leads toward Garhpanchkot. The turn towards Garpanchkot comes after you cross the highway entry to Asansol city.
I have to admit it was a relief to drive on the clear straight highway than navigating through the traffic-filled roads of Kolkata. Although I was praying for some rainfall to be bestowed upon us, apart from a slight drizzle near Durgapur, we didn’t encounter any more throughout the trip.
Important: Now coming to the most important part, where we made a mistake. After crossing Asansol, head straight towards the West Bengal-Jharkhand border till you reach the Dendua – Neamatpur four-point crossing (don't worry, you will see the point in Google Map).
A flyover will start from that point. Either due to network trouble or inadequate data, our Google Assistant failed to warn us not to take the flyover but to, take the service road beside it. So, DO NOT GET ON THE FLYOVER. TAKE THE SERVICE ROAD BESIDE IT.
Once you are on the service road, take the left turn to get on the Asansol – Chittaranjan Road to reach Garpanchkot. Even if you are not going to stay in the Charulata resort, this is the only way to reach the Panchet Dam, Panchet Hills, and Baranti from Kolkata.
After driving for about 4 km, the road will bring you to the Asansol-Barakar Road Junction, where you have to take the first right. After taking the turn, within 100 meters take another left from the Bajrangbali Mini Bus Stop to get onto Asansol – Purulia Road. The distance from the Dendua – Neamatpur Four-point to the resort is about 27 km and the road is quite good.
Once you get off the highway and start driving towards the heart of Purulia district, the surroundings change quite a bit with more greenery flanking both sides of the road.
After driving for about 15 km, we could finally see the outline of Panchet Hill and we were overjoyed looking at the lush greenery all around us.
After about 23 km on this road, you will come across a tiny sign on the opposite side of the road that will lead you towards Garhpanchkot and the foot of the hills. So, stay alert as it is very much possible to miss it. (We missed it)
Once you take the turn, do not be discouraged by the narrow lane or the village roads that you will drive through, thinking how this road can lead you towards a resort. But trust me, it will.
Be extra cautious as the road is quite narrow and is filled with people as well as livestock. You harm their livestock, you will have to pay a heavy price for it. The narrow village road heads straight to the Garpanchkot Eco Resort better known as Charulata Resort.
Charulata Resort - a Beauty in Itself
Situated at the base of the Panchet Hills, amidst the ruins of the old Ranimahal fort, Charulata Resort is a beauty to behold, not because of its architectural magnificence (though the resort is beautifully made) but because of its location.
While one side of the resort is flanked by the huge Panchet hills, three sides are surrounded by lush greenery and the ruins of the old fort. It was like nature and history decided to settle in one place. Even in the scorching summer heat, the place didn't fail to impress us. However, if you want to see nature in full bloom try visiting during the end of the monsoon season.
The resort offers 9 AC Cottages and 2 Tent Houses (still under construction, will be available in winter) for accommodation. The cottages are comfortable and spacious and the view from the balcony is beautiful.
After a long drive, we were craving some good food. The sumptuous lunch comprised of Bengali delights such as huge Posto Bora (Poppy Seed Cutlets), Sona Mung Dal (Lentil), Rice, and Dhokar Dalna. I have to say that the cooking was really good and I still crave the Poppy Seed cutlets at home.
During our evening walk, we met Mr Sadhan Dey, the owner of the Panchkot hotel and tea stall narrated to us the beautiful history of that place. Within walking distance of the resort lies the ruins of the former fort and a recently renovated Krishna Mandir or Rash Mandir. The temple is very close and can be visited on foot easily.
What makes the Charulata Resort even more Instagram worthy is the five-storey watchtower that lies within its premises. Words fail to describe that view from the top floor of the tower. So please enjoy the pictures and videos below and judge them for yourself.
Day 2 Trip to Kalyaneshwari Temple and Maithon Dam
Maithon, the beautiful border town famous for the Maithon Dam is just one hour drive away from Garhpanchkot. So, it did not make any sense not to visit the place while visiting the area. The ancient Kalyeneshwari Mandir also falls on the way and we decided to stop there as well.
Quick Tip: If you plan on visiting the temple, come early as 1 pm to 2.30 pm, the temple is closed to the visitors for regular puja activities. Also, it gets very difficult to get a parking spot around the temple.
After visiting the temple we left for Maithon Dam and regretted the decision soon. Although we had aimed for the monsoon season while planning our trip, the rains alluded us for the whole time and by the time we reached Maithon dam, which is a short drive from the temple, the sun was beating down on our heads determined to send us back into the cool confines of our resort.
While the dam and the sights surrounding it is magnificently beautiful, with small islands popping up here and there from the water, we could not enjoy it thoroughly due to the intense heat. Nevertheless, we still visited Maithon Dam, the deer park (another place you should not miss) and then started our 50km drive back to the resort.
Sunset at Baranti
The last destination on our itinerary - Baranti - is comparatively more popular than Garhpanchkot among the tourists. Before I made this trip, I had heard from many that it is worth seeing the sunset from the Baranti Dam. The one thing I could not have enjoyed during the monsoons was a proper sunset. So, let us enjoy at least one advantage of visiting this place during the summer. And boy I was not disappointed !!
I would rather show you than write what I saw there.
A single hillock stood standing defying time at the end of a red dusty road that ran atop the dam. On one side of the road was lush greenery and on the other side was an expansive lake filled with simmering water. The whole scene made us forget time.
Quick Tip: Use the Google Map but you can also take the help of the locals to reach Baranti Dam.
After a successful photo session at the Baranti Dam, we headed back to Mr Dey’s tea stall for evening snacks. Right when we were wondering how to spend the last day of our trip, Mr Dey informed us about the ruins of the ancient Raghunath Temple and a water canal that was still functioning on the Panchet Hills. The attractions which lay 600 ft above within the dense jungle covering hills could be reached after a short hike.
Mr Dey had us at “ruins in the hills” and we made impromptu plans of visiting it the next day with Dey serving as our guide.
Quick tip: If we visit the Charulata resort and wish to hike to the ruins, do approach Mr Dey to act as the guide. He would be happy to do so. However, do not go hiking alone as you will get lost. There is no definite path and the mobile signal on the hill is very sketchy.
Day 3: Trek to Raghunath Mandir in the Panchet Hills
The last day of the trip was the most memorable adventurous thing I had done in a long time. We had planned to start the trek at 7 in the morning to avoid the heat while we trekked up but something or the other came up and we couldn't start before 9 am.
It is important to point out that the trek is impossible to go without a guide as there is no clear path to reach the temple. You might take a wrong turn and end up getting lost in the dense jungle. So, take a guide for the hike.
It took a little more than an hour to reach the temple ruins, which sat at an approximate height of 600 ft height. Once we entered the ruins of the temple complex, it was entering a different era altogether.
In a 300 ft x 300 ft clearing, the age-old ruins of the Raghunath temple sat waiting to welcome visitors for centuries. While the front part of the main temple is still standing, the backside of the structure is in ruins.
There is also a Shiv Mandir on the Western side of the temple but the deity is long gone. The view from the temple ruins is out of the world and it will surprise you to see how far you have climbed.
According to our guide, the temple was built by the Panchkot royal family, also known as the Shikhar Bhoom royal family, sometime in 1651 AD. The main fort of the royal family was located at the same place 600 ft above in the Panchet Hills surrounded by stone walls. However, the ruins of the Raghunath Temple are the only thing left behind.
From the temple, we went westward to see a water canal (Dhara) that was built by the royal family. The trek to the canal was more difficult and at times was quite challenging as there was no road. We were cutting through the growth and climbing steep rocks to go there.
Once we reached the canal, which still transports water to the village at the base of the hill, we were welcomed by the serenity of the jungle. The various bird and insect calls and occasional gusts of wind will make you aware of exactly how much deep you have penetrated the hilly forest.
The Ruins of the Canal
=> If you successfully trek to the canal you will feel thirst like you have never felt before, especially in the summer. The cool water from the canal will look like heaven but don't drink it. While the villagers do use it as drinking water, they have become naturally immune to it. You might however use it for washing your face as it's quite refreshing
After the excruciating yet exhilarating 3 hour trek, we came back to our resort famished, sweaty, tired, and thirsty. However, the experience was out of the world, to say the least.
Day 4 (19.6.2018): Return to Kolkata
With a heavy heart, we packed our bags to return to the hustle of everyday life in Kolkata.
Garhpanchkot is a hidden beauty and it's worth going there more than once.
P.S. It rained just when we hit the highway towards Kolkata.
If you guys have any questions about my trip or the post, let me know in the comments. Also, do not forget to share it with your friends. We can never travel enough.
Thanks you so much. I glad you liked it. Do visit the place. My blog hasn't captured half its beauty. It's serves for a great weekend trip
I was imagining the words you wrote. A very well written and explained. I will think to visit this place someday.